This is the end of the Camino Santiago de Compostelle, the great cathedral which houses the bones of St. James the Apostle. The main altar is more elaborate than any I have ever seen.

Wandering around we have found the Hotel Arias Nunez on a narrow side street near the cathedral. It is in a very old stone building, but it has been completely renovated. Not too expensive for a "boutique" hotel. Our room overlooks the back courtyard, which unfortunately is shared by a cafe with noise from 6 AM till midnight or 1 AM. Nicely furnished, pretty. We can dial a Compuserve number in another city, but it is expensive. And it only works for web access; no FTP, OE. Our car is stashed in a public underground garage about three blocks away. The streets in this central area near the cathedral are pedestrian-only for most of the day.

I can't believe that all of the spiffy, cheerful people strutting around Santiago with cockle shells, backpacks and walking sticks are really pilgrims and have just walked 500 miles. This is a perfect venue for posers. I note that the curio stands are doing a brisk business in walking sticks.

There are a few who look scruffy and all worn out; usually limping. In dim light you can see their halos.

A major triumph; we found a self service laundry with new equipment including dryers that really work. Also a bookstore with a really beautiful picture book on the Camino; text in English. Will have to weave some of the book into this site.

Wed, still in Santiago. Good meal at Triangulo, vegetarian. Wine bar near hotel. Can't get good pictures of high altar in cathedral because the lights are usually off, except during the mass. Post cards are poor quality. Altar is amazing. They didn't swing the censor; that is only for special occasions.

I am listening to the sound of the huge cathedral bell which was captured by Almanzor, taken to the mosque at Cordoba and then recovered after the expulsion of the Moors - unfortunate, childish, self destructive struggles between the Spanish Christians, Moors and Jews.