Dave Around the World - October, 2005 visit to northwestern Spain

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Dave is a semi-retired oceanographer living in La Jolla, California. He and his wife Mary travel extensively and would like to share some of their experiences with you.

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Spain, October 2005

October, 2005 visit to northwestern Spain

We started at St. Jean Pied de Port in France and walked over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles in Spain. We followed parts of the medieval pilgrimage route called the Camino Santiago de Compostella. Over the past thousand years several million people have walked this route. The total distance from St. Jean to Santiago in the far northwest of Spain is about five hundred miles. Mary walked 185 miles and I walked 150 miles. We occasionally used busses to leap ahead. We also took time out for sightseeing. The following pictures relate to the walk or to the couple of weeks we spent touring in Spain after we finished the walk. It was a great experience. We would like to go again and hike other sections of the Camino.

From the middle ages to the present day millions of pilgrims have walked from all over Europe to Santiago de Compostella at the northwestern corner of Spain. The cathedral there is said to contain the bones of the apostle St. James. Here is St. James himself in the costume of a medieval pilgrim. The scallop shells are the symbol of St. James and the Camino Santiago.	Mary waiting in the Bayonne, France train station for the local to St. Jean Pied de Port.
Foggy morning in St. Jean Pied de Port, France. This town is a popular starting point for people hiking the Camino Santiago de Compostella across the Pyrenees into Spain. Hikers cross this bridge, pass through an old arch and head up the mountain.	Mary and Dave starting from St. Jean Pied de Port with lots of energy; also tender feet and soft muscles.
The Route St. Jacques, or Camino Santiago, has an office and refuge in St. Jean Pied de Port. These gentlemen are volunteer hosts. It is their job to send off new hikers / pilgrims with enough information and momentum to get them over the Pyrenees to the old monastery of Roncesvalles in Spain.	One option for following the Camino Santiago out of St. Jean Pied de Port is to hike along the historic Route Napoleon. As you can see, this section follows an all-weather road. Hiking along a road is not a concern on a clear, dry day, but it is probably a great comfort in fog, rain and snow.
Beautiful, privately owned and operated refuge at Orisson. Wonderful meals, friendly atmosphere. A perfect midpoint on the climb over the Pyrenees; at least for people like us who are just getting started.	Deck at Refuge Orisson; looking east along the French face of the Pyrenees.
Morning on the second day out of St. Jean Pied de Port; a few miles above Orisson. Pilgrims straggle along the road and sheep dot the distant hillside. Sky is clear ahead toward the south and the pass to Spain. Back of us the clouds are advancing.	The international border is marked only by a stone pillar announcing the province of Navarra; no mention of Spain. This was one of a number of subtle hints that Spain still harbors some age old allegiances.
Looking back into France from near Col de Bentarte near Spanish border. We can see the clouds coming up and we feel the wind.	Mary and Caroline at the pilgrims' gate to Pamplona. Here we are only minutes from the refugio and much-appreciated rest.
We have made it over the Pyrenees and down to the old monastery at Roncesvalles. First business is to check in with the pilgrim office and obtain a stamp (sello) on our credential - something like a passport. The woman at the right, Caroline, is from Australia.	Part of Mary's replacement credential showing sellos from different towns, shops, churches and refugios along the Camino Santiago de Compostella. Mary lost her original credential and got a replacement in Sarria (the red sello).
The main adult refugio in Roncesvalles is in a cavernous stone structure with gothic arches overhead. There are 100 beds, but the ventilation is good and the pilgrims are considerate of one another. Cooking facilities and showers are below. Except for the gothic shell most of this refuge is new. When we arrived it was staffed by volunteer hosts from Belgium. There a couple of good restaurants in nearby hotels.	Hike, eat, organize, sleep, hike, eat, organize, ... Pilgrims are constantly organizing their packs or looking for misplaced items. We find that it is a good idea to sub-package items in smaller bags. Few frequently used items like bottle of sunscreen, credential, ... go in the outer pockets of our packs.
Fraternizing after the pilgrims' mass at the big church at ancient monastery of Roncesvalles. The mass is a major ceremonial milestone for both Catholic and non-Catholic pilgrims. "Pilgrim" is a loosely used term. Hikers or cyclists on the Camino are inspired by religious motives or just a sense of adventure. We walk back to the refuge through a light rain. It definitely is dark out there; no lights beyond the few buildings of Rocesvalles. We go to bed and the overhead lights are dimmed at 10 PM. Most people are asleep when the single, exhausted and hungry woman who has been hiking for 14 hours - 4 hours in the dark and rain - knocks on the door and asks for a bed.	Dave and Caroline the Australian on the bridge leading into Pamplona. Pamplona was founded by the Romans in 75 AD and has been the capital of Navarra since the 9th century.
Mary and Caroline at the pilgrims' gate to Pamplona. Here we are only minutes from the refugio and much-appreciated rest.	Dave and Caroline in the main plaza, Pamplona, warming up in the last rays of afternoon sunshine. Pamplona feels like a comfortable city.
Particularly attractive tapas bar in Pamplona, a city with some great bars. Tapas bars are not necessarily abundant or good in other areas of northwest Spain. It takes a good cook to make good tapas.	Patty and Stuart from Canada, Caroline from Australia and Mike from the US. Caroline and Mike speak Spanish, which is a great advantage.
Elena from Spain and Mike from the US outside an early morning cafe in Pamplona. Pilgrims must leave the refuges by 8 AM. They try to find someplace that will serve them coffee and tiny pastry. In Spain substantial meals are not served till about 2 PM. Therefore pilgrims hike on an empty stomach. In the morning as I walked along, hungry, I was haunted by the memory of tasty, nourishing Mexican breakfasts - eggs, potatoes, onions, chilies, refried beans, salsa! How could Spain and Mexico be connected for so long without some of the Mexican culinary skills flowing eastward? They would have been a much more lasting treasure than all of that gold and silver.	Ornate city hall in Pamplona. I believe that Pamplona's famous running bulls thunder by here.
Upholstery shop in Puente la Renia, town west of Pamplona on the Camino Santiago.	The Puente la Renia, 11th century bridge at the west exit of the town.
Dave approaching Cirauqui through vineyards. Weather is sunny and cool; perfect for hiking. Parts of the Camino could be hot as hell in the summer.	Estella; once a heavily fortified town of considerable extent. There is a medieval model in the visitors' center; quite surprising. Etella's ancient churches remain impressive. Throughout history builders would scavenge stones from older buildings to build anew. This accounts for the disappearance of many ancient monuments. In-use churches, monasteries and bridges were off limits to the scavengers.
The winery at Irache has an outdoor fountain where wine is dispensed free! The quality is OK. Rather a young wine. Not the best we had in Spain but not the worst either. The fountain has a webcam which publishes the pictures of people who visit.	Partially rebuilt monastery at Irache, on the Camino Santiago about 2 km west of Estella. It is amazing how wealthy and powerful these monasteries once were in Spain.
Stuart and Dave at the Castillo winery in Villamayor de Monjardin. We bought a bottle of chardonnay and took it back to the refugio (albergue)	Mary and Dave at the Bodegas Castillo de Monjardin.
Typical markers for the Camino Santiago de Compostella. Volunteers typically mark the Camino with yellow arrows or just swipes of yellow paint. This tree also shows the white and red bands of the national trail system which overlaps the Camino in many places.	The Dutch group OASIS has a great little refugio in the town of Villamayor de Monjardin. They also serve an optional, inexpensive evening meal with wine. The pilgrims around this table are from France, Germany, Canada, Spain and the US. Good conversations, mostly in English.
Leaving Villamayor de Monjardin around 8 AM. Spain's time zone is one or two hours earlier than it should be for its far western position - right below Ireland. Spanish life adjusts to an incorrect time zone by being two hours late. That is, all except life on the Camino Santiago; up and out at 8 AM or earlier - pitch black at this time of the year, October.	In Torres del Rio there is a private rufugio, or albergue, called Casa Mari. It is clean and well run, friendly. No restaurants in the town so we must cook for ourselves. There are a couple of small stores. Casa Mari sells some sandwiches and drinks, packaged meals.
Cooking at Casa Mari is a fun experience. Fortunately not everybody tries to cook at one time. Young Spanish pilgrims cook and eat late.	We walked into Viana just before noon mass at the cathedral. One of the altar servers, the dark haired girl at far left, was popping bubble gum. How soon the young ones forget the lessons of the Inquisition.
The plaza in Viana comes alive after the noon mass. In Spain, the heart of the old town is often a wonderful place to congregate. I presume that the residences immediately surrounding the heart are very desirable and expensive. A little further out developers are now building many high rise condominium complexes which can accommodate a lot of people but in a much more drab environment.	Sampling grapes along the Camino Santiago; an ancient prerogative of the pilgrim? At least, no one seems to mind. Grapes on the vine must be extremely cheap in Spain. The flavors of the grapes were quite different from one vineyard to the other. I guess that should not come as a surprise. On bright days my little digital camera will sometimes, but not always, blow out the highlights. I am sorry that I do not have a better picture of this scene.
In the Rioja region bottles of wine can sell for as little as 0.30 Euros. This display is in an Eroski supermarket. To be entirely accurate, the 0.03 Euro price is only for the second bottle after you buy the first one at 0.59 Euros. We didn't try it. I presume it was not bad. When we were walking we did not buy many bottles of wine for an obvious reason; they were too heavy. When we had dinner they would usually include a bottle as part of the fixed price meal.	In some treeless areas we can begin to grasp the vast extent of the Camino. It can be very lonely for a solitary pilgrim. Beyond Mary, a couple other hikers can be seen as dots in the distance.
The Leon cathedral in the evening with a light rain falling. We have found a comfortable hotel and are staying here for three nights.	Retable in the Leon Cathedral.
Decorated arches from the royal pantheon in San Isidoro in Leon, 12th century. This room originally contained the tombs of 23 kings and queens, but it was sacked by Napoleon's troops. Many of Europe's churches and monasteries contained beautiful religious objects made of gold and silver and decorated with jewels. Obviously they were the most attractive targets for looters during the wars and revolutions. Most were destroyed to get at the precious materials. An unknown number wound up in private collections. Some are still on display in churches and museums. Treasures like the decorations above were not portable enough to attract the casual looter so they remain.	Detail from a Visigothic bible, about 960 AD. The style is quite unusual and, to me, it looks 20th century.
Eels and octopus. Spaniards in the northwest eat a lot of seafood. Fishmarkets are common.
This tailor shop in Lyon specializes in pointy-headed costumes for religious fraternities to wear during festivals. They are less sinister than they appear.	Hiking through the oak forests, just west of Sarria. In Spain oaks were farmed to provide acorns to feed pigs. In turn the pigs produced flavorful hams. I do not know if this is the current practice. I noticed that many oaks were being cut down
Sprinkled along the Camino are some unexpected opportunities for food and lodging. Casa Morgade is in the hills to the west of Sarria. At 10 AM, when we passed by, the little dining room was filled with pilgrims.	Noble lords of the pasture.
For the last 1000 years pilgrims have threaded their way through this tiny hamlet.	The new, privately owned refugio / albergue O' Mirador at Portomarin. The bar / restaurant looks across the empty reservoir and remnants of the old town site. We roomed with an Israeli man who was cycling the Camino. He had left his diary / logbook at a stop some miles back. The O' Mirador proprietor drove him back to pick it up and would not accept any repayment for all of the travel.
Wedding at Portomarin. The church of St. Nicolas was moved from the river valley to this new townsite on the hills above. Church styles vary considerably. This was a fortified design. Rather handsome proportions and detail for a simple block.	Caldo Gallego is a thick soup of vegetables and meat. The soups were the best part of inexpensive meals in northwest Spain. But they were not always on the menu. It is a good idea to carry a small bottle of Tabasco sauce; food is pretty bland.
There are mysterious crops growing all along the Camino. These looked a little like radish leaves. I wish the restaurants offered more vegetables.	Cows, what else?
Dave finds happiness in a pot of hot tea.	For one day the weather is really soggy . While trying to skirt a flooded trail Mary runs afoul of an old tangle of barbed wire. This is no fun. This evening we stop at Hostal O'Pino, nice room with radiators with heat! We are able to dry out all of our gear. Restaurant is good. And they have an internet terminal.
Outermost skirts of the city of Santiago de Compostella, the end of the Camino. Rain is light; not a problem for hardened pilgrims like us.	Mary crosses the plaza in Santiago de Compostela; the end of the Camino. The sun suddenly appears.
Mary in front of the cathedral at Santiago de Compostela.	Dave on steps in front of cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.
In recognition of her completing the Camino Mary was awarded an official compostela by the office in Santiago. I lost my stamped credential in the last few miles so I could not prove the distance I had hiked. No compostela for me.	At the end of certain masses in the cathedral they swing, over the congregation, a large silver urn filled with burning incense. It is spectacular to see, but very difficult to photograph.
Closeup of the incense urn, called a botafumiero.	Delicatessen in Santiago. Hams hang overhead.
Outdoor market in Santiago.	Indoor seafood market in Santiago.
After a three day holiday in Santiago we rode the train southwest to Zamora. A pretty town, it deserved more than the one day we allowed.	Lunch while waiting for a bus to Salamanca.
Salamanca is the home of an ancient university. The main plaza is reputed to be one of the most beautiful in Europe.	Salamanca as viewed from across the river. We stayed in Salamanca for three days.
Spaniards are big meat eaters. We got overdosed on meat, and were therefore not very enthusiastic about buying and trying all of the types of sausages; but I bet some were very good. Next time.	Finding happiness in a glass of wine - in a friendly bar. This little wine bar on the plaza in Toro, Spain is the realization of a dream. It is patronized by the local winemakers and their young staffs. For those who might be interested, this wine bar is on the left a short distance after you pass under the clock tower going into the plaza (southward). If you decide to stay in Toro check out the accommodations around the old plaza and an old hotel on the edge of the cliff, near the church. Approaching Toro from the main autoroute on the northern flatland is not nearly as impressive as using backroads to approach it from the southern valley.
Toro, pastry shop in a garage. For a small town, Toro has a lot to offer. It might be a good place to live for awhile and take Spanish lessons. There are some good restaurants and, of course, wine bars. One strange thing about Toro; there is a slightly sweetish but not offensive aroma in the air most of the time. Smells like a bakery.	Famous portal at Toro collegiate church. Rare example of brilliantly painted stone, the original treatment given to many stone carvings in the middle ages. In most instances the ancient paint has been completely removed by the weather or by the hand of man.
Catalina explaining operations to Mary at the Dos Victorias winery at San Ramon de Hornijos near Toro. Dos Victorias is one of a number of new wineries established in the Toro region.	Catalina and Mary tasting wines at the Dos Victorias winery near Toro, Spain. We bought and hauled some bottles back to the US. By this time in our travels we had rented a small car so we could accumulate extra baggage.
The vineyards at Dos Victorias are mulched with rocks and there are no trellises or irrigation pipes. The system seems to work. Their wines are well respected at home and abroad. We think they are delicious.	Roman aqueduct at Segovia, Spain. We arrived in Segovia on a long holiday weekend. The city was crowded - mostly by Spaniards from nearby Madrid (we think). Some of the young holiday makers would stay out all night to avoid the costs of a hotel room. I guess if you can take it ...
Mary at the Mudejar military castle in Coca, Spain - a small town north of Segovia. Fancy brickwork is very unusual and attractive.	Moat and walls at the Mudejar military castle in Coca, Spain. Impressive but few visitors; because of its remote location, I suppose. From here we drove to the airport at Valladolid. We catch a flight to London then home to California. We have been away for more than 7 weeks.

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